Day 10

 June 26 (Custer State Park, SD)

We ate, packed, hiked around the campground a bit,

and then went to the Visitor Center, where we learned about the fossils in this place and the Junior Paleontologist program. Ev and Til were very interested in the paleontologists who were working on fossils from the site, asking questions and watching the precise work of freeing fossils from the rock. This was great because the kids would be able to finish this packet at Dinosaur National Monument, since the paleontology program is featured at several parks. We learned that this park is the largest repository of mammal fossils in North America. The ranger also gave them their Night Sky patches that they weren't able to get from the program last night. They walked out of that place with so much stuff!

After, we drove to the Door Trail and lucked out finding a parking spot (since we were towing the camper).

This trail was a new kind of trail and hiking experience - completely open and exposed among paths and fissures along the rock. It is so desolate and beautiful here - we learned indigenous people used to visit this space to hunt bison, then leave, and I understand why!

There were likely amazing lookouts for hunters and scouts.

The park ranger told us we are allowed to climb anywhere we want to in the park, which seemed really strange to me. Kids were running all over the place, sliding down the fragile peaks and kicking dirt and sand everywhere. I was so happy to be in this space, and yet it felt like a desecration to be there, especially the way many of my fellow humans moved around and found themselves in this space. I felt this challenging combination of emotions several times through this trip, especially in some of my favorite places.

Before leaving, we came upon this bird colony...

We drove a short jaunt out to Wall Drug, which was highly advertised along our drive, and it was immediately disappointing to me. It just wasn't my speed at all, and I wanted to get away from that place as soon as I stepped foot in there! It reminded me of the Amish market in all the worst ways. We avoided the food traps, paid Zoltar the Fortune Teller for two child-fortunes (which were shockingly applicable to each), and ate at a "saloon" down the block. 

After lunch, we drove back through the Badlands along a rugged dirt road. We saw a huge herd of bison grazing and lots of prairie dogs in their towns.

They were amazing and so cute standing up and looking at us as we drove by. The bison are absolutely glorious creatures - so stately and powerful. I'm so happy we went for the longer, scenic route back through the Badlands to Custer, SD (even though everything was covered in dust upon our exit of the Badlands). The colors of the rocks as we drove through were amazing, stunningly augmented in contrast of a crisp blue sky. I absolutely love this place!

The drive into Custer was about two hours, and the Black Hill Mountains were absolutely awesome. I feel like I'm in western-movie scenery in the final battle between the cowboys and the indians with the stark pine-covered cliffs and jutting lookouts. All I want to do is stop the car and climb up these cliffs!

We arrived at our campsite in Custer State Park in the Grace Coolidge campground - a small little loop in the middle of the park - and Ev and Til immediately made friends with a nine year old named Vashti at a small pond on the edge of the campground. She was a bundle of fresh air for Evelyn especially: a fun, quirky, self-confident young person (she'd made some interest campground friends so far).

We couldn't be happier to be settle in to this spot for a few days.